Pool Brick Makeover

When we got the estimate for our pool resurfacing, I asked for the bricks surrounding the pool and planter to be removed and replaced with flagstone. That alone would have cost $5000 extra, on top of the resurfacing cost. Gulp. I decided I could live with the bricks, but wanted to give them new life. We could have waited till after the pool was resurfaced, but we’d have new tile and I didn’t want to worry about discoloring them.

 

Pool brick before
“Before” photo of the pool brick. And the Fatal 4-Way Handstand Competition
Pool brick before1
Note the sun-bleached and discolored brick

The poor, defenseless brick around my pool gets direct California afternoon sun, beating down on it, everyday, for the last 28 years. Most of it is sun-bleached. The brick-lined planters behind the pool gets more shade, and thus were a different shade of sun-bleachedness.

I googled brick painting and staining, and was admittedly turned off by painting. Probably because many sites I came across had brick painted white, and I didn’t like the flat, uniform look. I looked up brick staining, as I thought it would give me a more natural look, and found I needed to find out if my bricks were sealed or coated first. That would determine if it would accept a stain.

So, I performed a water test. I assumed (incorrectly) that the bricks would be unsealed, as they are right next to the pool. Sealed surfaces= slick surfaces, or so I thought. The water test proved me wrong. I poured a little water on the brick and sure enough, it beaded up rather than absorb into it. Fan-freaking-tastic.

The wonderfully robust internet yielded a few options- test a bit of lacquer thinner on it, repeat the water test, and see if it removed the sealer. Nope. The next step would be to try a commercial sealer remover. As I gazed over the 264 bricks surrounding my pool, I quickly decided I would go with paint. I was not going to even try un-sealing 264 bricks.

We took a trip to Home Depot, and the staff recommended a bonding primer first, followed by the paint. I had forgotten I already had bonding primer from my last project, and ended up buying another one (I’m not bitter).

Behr Bonding Primer

I pressure washed the bricks pretty thoroughly, and hubby trimmed the razor-sharp rosebushes and juniper branches in the planter. I took a regular nylon paintbrush and painted the bonding primer on each brick. Each. And every. Brick. Don’t panic that it looks like skim milk at first- it dries clear.

Now the color. Behr has a wide variety of concrete and masonry paint, and you can choose which finish you prefer. I wanted a low-gloss color, so I chose the “Low Luster” base and had it tinted to “Red Brick”. Pretty fitting, I think.

Porch and Patio Paint-red brick

 

Home Depot staff advised to use a roller, per Behr’s recommendation. I completely ignored this and bought a paintbrush as I thought it would give me more control of the color. I’m glad I did.

I taped around the perimeter of the pool, and then thought I would tape the grout in between the brick. I got through about 7 bricks when I thought “Nope. No more”. It would’ve taken me all day just to tape. So I pulled a classic Amanda move and told myself “just be careful”.

Then I painted. And painted. And painted. Then painted some more. 264 bricks. In the heat. It was the most tedious DIY project thus far. After about 50 bricks I got smart and used a cushion for my knees. Which promptly became spattered with paint. Some of the bricks had gouges and it was difficult to get the paint into, but I kind of liked the look- it looked more “aged”.

After I got all 264 bricks painted (but who’s counting?), I debated about the grout. Should I leave it gray? It didn’t look too bad, but I decided it would bother me to leave it gray. I have an earth-tone theme going in the backyard. It would bug me. Then I lightbulb fired in my exhausted brain- my leftover concrete stain! I had a half a gallon left from the patio resurfacing project. It was the lighter “Saltillo Tile” color, and I thought it would look great with the brick red color.

 

Behr Saltillo
Looks darker than it actually is

I started by using a 1 inch paint brush to apply the stain between the bricks. It colored the grout perfectly, and covered the “oops” paint I got onto the grout (I guess I wasn’t all that careful sometimes). However, the flyaway bristles were getting the stain on the brick. I switched to a foam applicator and it worked much better. Warning: a little concrete stain in a foam applicator goes a long way. Press the excess against the side of the can first.

Foam brush

This was the easiest part of the project, although also tedious. Per Home Depot staff, sealing is not necessary if you use bonding primer. I didn’t want to seal it anyway until after the pool is resurfaced, do I can touch up any dings the brick might sustain.

Here is the finished project!

Pool brick 2Pool brick 3Pool Brick 4Pool brick 5

Pool brick 6
Enzo figuring out the pool sweep

 

 

Pool brick 7Pool brick1

 

Pool Deck Project

 

Several summers ago, we were swimming in our pool and I noticed a reddish brown stain on the wall in the deep end. I tried to scrub at it, I poked and prodded at it, and couldn’t figure out what it was. My pool serviceperson said “Well, you do need to resurface your pool”.  The 28-year-old plaster was crumbling and eventually would get into the pump system, ruining it. That mystery stain? Rebar coming through the plaster and creating a pretty magnificent rust stain.

The financial worry felt like a ton of bricks had fallen on my head. How much was this going to cost? Why the heck did I allow myself to buy a house with a pool? Of course, the frugal part of me was wondering if I can do it myself… HA! Nope. Long story short, we just now signed the contract for the resurfacing job to get done. Which led to the inevitable Backyard Makeover Domino Effect. After the initial sticker shock, we began to get super excited- no more decades-old 80’s pool/ pool tile! Maybe we CAN transform this dumpy backyard into an oasis! Maybe we can finally enjoy being OUTSIDE!

After cleaning up and getting rid of old backyard crap, we decided to figure out what to do with the concrete pool deck. It is exposed aggregate, which is beneficial because it helps prevent slipping when wet. So whatever we did, it had to maintain that same slip-resistant property. We couldn’t afford for it to be ripped up and replaced, and besides having a few rust stains it was in great condition with little to no cracks.

Concrete staining or painting would need to be sealed, which could get slick when wet. I did tons of research and decided to go with a product found at Home Depot, called Behr Granite Grip. It comes in 2 colors, gray and tan that can be tinted to several different shades. We had ours tinted to Copper Marble, and got two big 5 gallon tubs.

behrgranitegrip.jpg

We chose this product because of the ease and cost. After prepping the concrete, you simply paint it on. I wasn’t sure it would work on exposed aggregate, so I bought a small can and tested it on my side walkway. It worked beautifully!

As part of the prep, the concrete needed to be thoroughly cleaned. There were several options I read about online- TSP, muriatic acid (which was pretty frightening to read about- it’s hydrochloric acid), Simple Green, and commercial cleaners and degreasers. The surface must be cleaned, scrubbed, scrubbed, and scrubbed again- otherwise the color won’t adhere properly to the surface, and can cause discolored areas.

Moreover, the surface needed to be etched. It took me time to figure out what etching was (finally just googled it- could’ve saved me time if I’d thought of that from the get-go). Etching basically roughs up the surface so the concrete will accept the paint or stain. I sent an inquiry to Behr customer service to see if exposed aggregate needed to be etched since it’s rough to start with. The answer is YES.

I finally came across a product at Home Depot from Rustoleum, which is one of my favorite DIY products. It’s a concrete and masonry cleaner and degreaser. It has to be diluted, so follow the directions on the container. As for etching, well, here’s where my newbie-ness comes into play. Rustoleum has a cleaner and degreaser, and also a cleaner and etcher (with added components to rough up the surface at the same time as cleaning it). The containers are almost identical. So I actually ended up cleaning the concrete, then having to clean and etch.  Note to all you DIY-ers out there- just get the Clean and Etch.

rustoleumcleaner                                             Rustoleumetcher

 

 

After applying the cleaner/etcher, you have to scrub with a long-handled scrub brush, using about 10 million tons of elbow grease. Trust me- my arms and shoulders were super sore the following few days! Rinse it a MINIMUM of three times, and let it dry. The surface should feel like 150 grit sandpaper. Just keepin’ it real though- I don’t know what 150 grit sandpaper feels like compared to other grit sandpapers, so I just felt it and yup, felt like sandpaper. Done. Just needed to keep the kids and a crazy dog off of it for a day.

We did not have any cracks or chips to repair, so if anyone out there has them, you would repair the cracks after the etching. There are a couple products out there from mixing your own concrete (in a small bucket- apply with trowel, putty knife, etc.) or premixed in a sort-of squirt bottle for filling cracks. Let it dry and sand down lumps or ridges.

Here’s a few pics of the concrete after cleaning and etching. There were rust stains on the concrete which did not come up. I didn’t worry too much about them because 1) the color we chose is similar to rust-color 2) they were small 3) I was too lazy to go out and buy the recommended Krud Kutter to try to get it up.

 

The next step was to tape off the areas we did not want painted. We used painter’s tape for concrete- which I never knew existed and probably have picked up in the past on accident and ruined an interior wall or two, but whatevs. It adheres well which I needed. We taped around the pool coping and bricks, and covered over the additional copings (is that what they’re called?) and pool deck drain (the horizontal black lines in the picture). We also taped over our current pool fence holes- we had the fence replaced a few years ago and new holes were drilled- the old ones we left uncovered.

Now the fun part. Well, not so fun. Keeping two young kids away from wet paint and a wide open pool was not fun OR easy. Not to mention the numerous interruptions we had  to break up fights going on inside. Regardless, we started by painting the Granite Grip with brushes alongside the taped areas and borders. This was super exciting- I knew from the first brush stroke I was going to love the color!

 

Then came the rest of the surface. Behr is pretty clear that one must use a 1/4 inch adhesive roller for the Granite Grip. We got a couple long-handled rollers as well. The problem: Not easy to get the first two coats on with a long handled roller on exposed aggregate. More pressure is needed to get the product evenly spread, so we ended up on our hands and knees covering about 800 square feet (just a guess) of rocky, sandpapery, jagged concrete. I’m not bitter.

 

A note about the first coat: The first coat of the Behr Granite Grip is NOT what the final color will look like. Behr is very clear about that. The second and subsequent coats are more accurate. We did 3 coats after the initial border-painting. Also, the surface became smoother after multiple coats. On the last coat, we were able to use the long-handled roller, giving our backs, butts, and quads a break!

This product dries fairly quickly- ok to have light foot traffic after 24 hours, can move furniture back after 72. We had to take the dog on walks and despite my neighbor behind me spraying a hose over my fence onto the newly painted surface, it went off without a hitch. Took us about a day to complete (after the surface prep).

And now, the final look! We keep looking dreamily out the window….and planning the next project. =)

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